Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Istria Rovinj versus Hvar Islands - need help to decide

We are spending 5-6 days in Dubrovnik and then thinking about either going to Hvar and nearby islands for the remaining 4-5 days or skip Hvar and go to Rovinj and see the hilltowns. We like to stay in one area and relax rather than spending couple nights here and there. What would you recommend for a couple in their late 30%26#39;s - Hvar or Rovinj - after 5 days in Dubrovnik? By the way, we will end up in Venice 3 days after either locations to fly out. Thanks in advance.




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My husband and I are in our 30%26#39;s as well. I love both but my preference would be Istria. Rovinj is gorgeous but there are many other hilltowns that are quieter. However, I would guess that most people would choose Hvar. We just find Istrian hilltowns to be less commercial and less touristy than Hvar. Istria would probably involve more driving around and looking at stuff whereas Hvar may be less active.





You%26#39;ll win either way! :)




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Chefathome - thanks for your input. If we decide Istria over Hvar, then would you base yourself out of Rovinj and then visit other towns or base it somewhere else - any reocmmendation would be helpful.




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Hmmmm. Rovinj would be a great base and beautifully situated on the water. I believe the best time to explore it would be evenings and mornings. There are many daytrips you could do from there.





We base in one of the inland hilltowns (i.e. Hum area) but then we always look for rural stays. I will go downstairs and look at our travel books and notes and let you know what daytrips we have done, etc.





What time of the year are you planning on going? That could make a difference what you decide as well.




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Chefathome - we will be in Dubrovnik starting May 22 and then have 10 nights to travel in Croatia. I did plan to do a day trip to Hum, along with some other hill towns. I look forward to your recommendations.




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May would be an ideal time to choose as you will miss all the tourist hoards. Rovinj is a little gem and easily accessible to the hill and coastal towns providing you have a car. I%26#39;d certainly recommend you to visit Groznjan, Svetvincenat and Vodnjan. Also possibly Motovun. Motovun, although touristy - at that time of year it should be fine. The views from the walls are breathtakingly beautiful especially overlooking Ucka mountain. There is also Brijuni National Park which was Tito%26#39;s summer home until his death. Some other pleasant coastal towns are close to hand including Porec. Istria also has the reputation as the gastronomic heart of Croatia and famous for its truffles. Agro-tourism is big here. All in all Istria is very easy to travel in (and I haven%26#39;t even mentioned the East coast. You could travel all round Istria in one day if you so wished. Just make sure you have a good map.




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I agree with the above posting. However, I personally would avoid Porec as it is more resort-y and less charming but I really do my best to avoid resorts. It is truly mass tourism at its best in my opinion.





Vrsar, Groznjan, Bale, Beram, Gracisce, Buzet, Roc and Hum are my favourite hilltowns. Small, charming and gorgeous with labyrinths of steep narrow alleyways and beautifully preserved. Pula is also interesting for about half a day (south of Rovinj). The amphitheatre is neat. However, if you are not going in that direction I would not make a special trip to see it. Rovinj has a lovely market where you can buy fresh olive oil, cheeses, fruits and veg. It is packed with character.





Dvigrad is a cluster of moody grey ruins and very atmospheric. A place for a lovely town square is Svetvincenat.





A scenic drive leading out of Buzet climbs to the hamlet of Svi Sceti - great views. Consider a detour to the village of Sovinjak - pretty views. One of the best restaurants in Istria is 2 miles away in Sovinjsko Polje. It is called Toklarija and serves great quality, seasonal food. Proceed to a darling village of Draguc.





It is true that Istria is the truffle epicentre. We have gone white truffle hunting (season is October through December) and had one of the most memorable experiences ever. I am a foodie (and a chef) so it was important to me. However, you can get black truffle dishes out of season (preserved truffles) inexpensively.





Labin on the east coast is pretty.




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Thank you for all your recommendations, it sounds lovely. We are also foodies, so Istria sounds wonderful.





Chefathome - where do you stay when you are there, any recommendations? Any other must eat restaurants in May? Thanks in advance.




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I find I have to disagree with Chef. If you are staying in the vicinity of Rovinj with such close proximity to Porec, it would be a great pity to miss the 6th C. Euphrasius Basilica which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In May Porec is unlikely to be too busy and is a pleasant town with lots of narrow ancient stone streets with pretty squaraes, though not in the same category as Rovinj. When going inland to some of hillside towns you will find some of them very small indeed. I think at the last count Hum had a population of around 20. Groznjan (a favourite of mine) has pop. 193 and is 7 km East of Buje. Roc, pop. 178, 10 km from Buzet and so on which may mean you do not have to spend a lot hours there and can move on to the next place.





If you are aiming to stay around the Rovinj area you might look at the Hotel San Rocco at Brtonigla - near Groznjan. Small hotel with 12 rooms and a pool. It is noted for its restaurant and has many accolades for its food. I have never stayed here but it%26#39;s well known in the area and I believe there are reviews on Trip Advisor.





Chef: Labin,although near the East coast is in fact an inland hill town. It%26#39;s quite a sad place at the moment. When the mines closed there was only one other major industry and that is closing or has closed. Most of the town will be without work and it looks as though many will have to leave the area to make a living.




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Hello there





If you are staying 4 days and you prefer to relax and enyoj nice beaches i would prefer Hvar. You could hire a boat and explore the many little and quite coasts and bays on the island. Hvar is an island of 300 square kilometers so I would say there is enough to see for 4 days. Also if it isn%26#39;t enough you can take the fary other islands nearby like brac, solta, korcula ....





I would prefer Rovinj or Istria in general in autumn and winter when it%26#39;s harvest. Because Istria is a center of attraction for foodies (as you say you are). Everything grows very fine in Istria and they have good restaurants and renowned chiefs over there.





What i can recommend there is the toklarija. If you go there, reserve the whole evening. It is a slow food restaurant with a micheline and gault millaut star I think (but I don%26#39;t know for sure if or how many stars they have). Anyway it is very nice but also $$$. Not like other konobas and gostionas.





Here is a link:



www.istria-gourmet.com/.app/download.php…





Also in november I think, in Livade/Buzet (not so far away from Rovinj), are the %26quot;dani tartufa%26quot; - %26quot;they days of truffles%26quot;. Yes, you can imagine....



A lot of foods with truffles, and you can buy them very cheap (white and black truffles).





So ....what was the topic?! ...ah yes go to Hvar in summer (it%26#39;s also nearer from Dubrovnik)




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Hello there





If you are staying 4 days and you prefer to relax and enyoj nice beaches i would prefer Hvar. You could hire a boat and explore the many little and quite coasts and bays on the island. Hvar is an island of 300 square kilometers so I would say there is enough to see for 4 days. Also if it isn%26#39;t enough you can take the fary other islands nearby like brac, solta, korcula ....





I would prefer Rovinj or Istria in general in autumn and winter when it%26#39;s harvest. Because Istria is a center of attraction for foodies (as you say you are). Everything grows very fine in Istria and they have good restaurants and renowned chiefs over there.





What i can recommend there is the toklarija. If you go there, reserve the whole evening. It is a slow food restaurant with a micheline and gault millaut star I think (but I don%26#39;t know for sure if or how many stars they have). Anyway it is very nice but also $$$. Not like other konobas and gostionas.





Here is a link:



www.istria-gourmet.com/.app/download.php…





Also in november I think, in Livade/Buzet (not so far away from Rovinj), are the %26quot;dani tartufa%26quot; - %26quot;they days of truffles%26quot;. Yes, you can imagine....



A lot of foods with truffles, and you can buy them very cheap (white and black truffles).





So ....what was the topic?! ...ah yes go to Hvar in summer (it%26#39;s also nearer from Dubrovnik)

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